June 01, 2026

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Under Your Skin

Few beauty movements have reshaped skincare quite like K-beauty. It has consistently stayed ahead of the curve, turning complex cosmetic science into products that feel accessible, desirable, and often years ahead of the rest of the world. Now, the latest innovation making its way from Korean beauty clinics and laboratories into skincare routines worldwide is spicule technology. Traditionally derived from marine or freshwater sponges, these are tiny, needle-like structures that create temporary pathways within the skin. Spicules have rapidly become one of the most discussed skincare launches of the year, promising to blur the line between topical skincare and treatment-inspired results.MORE THAN EXFOLIANT "When applied topically, they gently create microchannels that allow ingredients such as peptides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid to penetrate more effectively," explains Dr Geetika Mittal, Medical Director and Founder of ISAAC Luxe.The easiest mistake to make is assuming spicules are simply another exfoliating trend. They are often compared to acids, scrubs, and even microneedling, but they don't fit neatly into any of those categories. "Unlike chemical exfoliants, which work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, spicules create a mechanical effect, loosening surface debris while helping active ingredients travel further into the skin," says Dr Geetika Srivastava, Dermatologist and Founder, Influennz Clinic.The result is a technology that doesn't position itself as an ingredient hero, but as an ingredient enhancer. Rather than introducing a new active into a routine, spicules are designed to improve how existing actives perform.SKINCARE'S DELIVERY SYSTEM ERA The rise of spicules also says something about today's beauty consumer. Increasingly educated and results-driven, shoppers are looking for products that sit somewhere between traditional skincare and professional treatments.For years, skincare innovation revolved around discovering the next breakthrough molecule. Consumers learned the language of retinoids, peptides, ceramides, and vitamin C, while brands raced to formulate increasingly sophisticated ingredient cocktails. Today, the focus appears to be shifting."There is growing awareness that even excellent ingredients are only as effective as their ability to reach the right layers of the skin," says Dr Priyanka Sharma, Co-founder, Director, and Chief Dermatologist at V6 Clinics. That shift has fuelled growing interest in delivery technologies, from encapsulation systems and liposomes to nano-formulations and, now, spicules. Attention is increasingly turning from a formula's composition to its efficacy once it comes into contact with the skin.HYPE MEETS SCIENCE Yet as excitement around spicules continues to build, so does the tendency to compare them with professional microneedling. The resemblance is understandable: both approaches rely on controlled stimulation and both are often marketed as ways to encourage skin renewal.The similarities, however, have limits. "Microneedling uses a physical device to puncture the skin and reach depths of up to two millimetres," says Dr Mittal. "Spicules are massaged topically and work only at the surface." While the science behind enhanced ingredient penetration is promising, long-term clinical data remains limited. "The concept isn't entirely new, particularly within Korean beauty," says Srivastava. "But robust, independent long-term studies are still lacking." Sensitive skin types, particularly those dealing with rosacea, eczema, active acne, or a compromised barrier, should approach the technology carefully and avoid pairing it immediately with strong exfoliating acids."Peptides, retinoids and professional procedures have far more proven benefits and longer safety records," says Mittal. "Spicules are an add-on to improve delivery, not a replacement." The bigger story, however, may not be spicules themselves. Their popularity signals a new chapter in skincare--one where innovation is no longer solely about discovering the next miracle ingredient, but about finding smarter ways to deliver the ingredients we already know work.

Girl in Biarritz

Two friends who grew up in fashion board a train to Biarritz, France, for the Chanel Cruise show. It sounds impossibly glamorous, almost cinematic. Two girls who, in their own little ways, have built careers in an industry they once only admired from afar, now living dreams that millions aspire to. Reality, however, has a wonderful way of keeping fashion humble. We boarded the wrong compartment. Thankfully, the right train.Until the Chanel Cruise invitation landed in my inbox, I couldn't have confidently pointed to Biarritz on a map. Perched on France's Basque coast, brushing up against Spain, it is a town that wears its glamour lightly. Surfers chase Atlantic waves, families wander the promenade, and the rhythm of life feels worlds away from the theatricality of Paris Fashion Week.Yet this is where Gabrielle Chanel quietly changed fashion forever.In 1915, she established her first couture House in Biarritz, bringing together her boutique, ateliers, and salons under one roof. Long before Rue Cambon became mythology, there was this windswept corner of France, where Chanel refined an entirely different idea of luxury. One rooted not in excess, but in freedom. Clothes that belonged outdoors. Clothes that moved. Clothes that allowed women to